Molly Goddard's Master Class: The Art of Deconstruction

2023-09-18 14:10:03

Molly Goddard Gave a Master Class in Deconstruction

Molly Goddard showcased her expertise in garment deconstruction during her spring/summer 2024 collection. Known for her signature tulle dresses that elevate the traditionally hidden fabric, Goddard took her exploration further by studying historical underwear, including crinolines, 1950s bras, Victorian christening gowns, and Georgian underskirts.

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The Venue:

Goddard chose Christie's auction house as the location for her show, after spending time at the National Theatre costume hire, immersing herself in beautifully crafted costumes, furniture props, and armor from past productions.

The Casting

The designer showcased her collection on models of all sizes, embracing diversity and highlighting skin-baring styles on bodies of different shapes and proportions.

The Front Row:

The front row of the Molly Goddard show during London Fashion Week September 2023 included notable figures like Nia Archives, Emma Appleton, Griff, Francesca Hayward, Emma Lewisham, and Clara Cornet.

The Collection:

Goddard's SS24 collection focused on deconstruction, with a particular emphasis on the internal workings of undergarments. She incorporated elements like grosgrain strapping, internal zips, boning, and binding into her designs. Bandeau tops showcased vertical stripes formed by grosgrain strapping, while bra seam lines became prominent features on dress bodices. Cotton-wrapped elastic, zigzag stitching, and undone zippers were also used as decorative motifs.

White frills peeked out from varying hemline lengths, while pin tucks were skillfully cut on the bias to create new silhouettes and draping. One standout pairing consisted of a bandeau top and a full skirt reminiscent of the New Look era, adorned with cascading ruffles.

The Thank Yous:

Goddard's appreciation for the internal workings extended beyond her designs. In her show notes, she recognized and acknowledged every individual who contributed to the collection's creation, from garment technologists to sample cutters.

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